Patterned «openwork» two-component fabrics from the medieval Russia

Abstract

For the first time the article demonstrates the results of reconstruction of two archeological samples of patterned «openwork» fabrics from the medieval Russia dating from the period between the 10–13th centuries. The fabrics of this kind were made of two components: wool yarn and yarn made of organic plant fibers (flax or hemp). Yarn made out of organic plant fibers has decomposed over time, leaving holes in the fabric. In the mid-sixties of the 20th century a scholar from Poland A. Nahlik formulated a hypothesis about the structure of the original fabric for the patterned «openwork» fabrics. According to this hypothesis, the fabric consisted of parts of fabric of two weaves, the decorations were made of one-layered fabric and the background was made of a two-layered fabric. The upper layer was made of wool and the lower layer was made of the yarn made of organic plant fibers. By developing Nahlik’s ideas, the authors of the present article have developed a technique to reconstruct this type of fabric. An original fabric which corresponds to the archeological sample from the village Dobroselye of Kaluga region has been produced on a handloom. The article provides a detailed description of the weaving method which was used for the production of this fabric. In addition, the authors have reconstructed for the first time the pattern of a fabric excavated in the Old Novgorod. Its reconstruction was previously considered impossible due to the scarcity of the preserved remains. An original fabric which corresponds to the archeological sample from the Old Novgorod has also been produced on a loom. The remains of these fabrics are frequently found in the excavations of mounds in the central Russia and are not found anywhere else in Europe. A hypothesis can be made that these fabrics were widely used in the Medieval Russia. According to A. Nahlik, these fabrics could have been used for the outer garments, ponevas, cloaks, blankets, coverlets, caparisons and similar items. At present, these fabrics can be used to produce new objects of decorative art. The article is of interest for the students specializing in the decorative arts and other artistic disciplines, art historians and other specialists of the art of the medieval Russia.

Keywords:

archeological textile, two-layered fabric, patterned «openwork» fabric, textile art of medieval Russia, A. Nahlik