The evolution of costume and ethnographic albums as illustrated publications in European art of the third quarter of the 18th–19th centuries
Abstract
The article is devoted to the problem which has gained little academic consideration but is signifi cant to establish the typology of costume and ethnographic genres. With the fashion periodicals widely spread in the end of the 18th century, the costume albums shift s their focus from contemporary clothes to the dress of the past. The emphasis on accuracy and reliability of historical information leads to changes in terms of the content and design which transform the genre from artistic albums into scientific books and thus results in distinguishing the costume and ethnographic genres. Ethnographic albums remain generally the same up to the end of the 19th century, with innovations stressing the uniqueness of authorial design of a book.
Keywords:
costume albums, ethnographic albums, illustrated publications, an artistic album, a scientific publication
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References
Литература
1. Turner J. The Dictionary of Art: in 34 vol. New York: Grove, 1996. Vol. 10. 913 p.
2. Nicolay N., de. Les quatres premiers livres des Navigations et peregrinations orientalis. Lyon, 1568.
3. Bruyn A., de. Omnium pene Europae, Asiae, Africae et Americae gentium habitus. Antwerpen: M. Colÿn, 1581.
4. Олеарий А. Описание путешествия в Московию и через Московию в Персию и обратно / введ., пер., примеч., указ. А. М. Ловягина. СПб., 1906. 582 с.
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6. A Collection of the dresses of different nations, anсient and modern. Particularly old English dresses. After the designs of Holbein, Vandyke, Hollar and others. With an account of the authorities from which the figures are taken; and some short historical remarks on the subject. To which are added the habits of the principal characters on the English stage. Vol. 1–4. London, 1757–1772.
7. Spalart R., von, Kaiserer J. Versuch über das Kostüm. 8 Thle. Wien, 1796–1837.
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15. The Costume of Turkey, illustrated by a series of engravings; with description in English and French. London, 1804. [12], 120 p.
16. Solvyns B. The costume of Hindostan elucidated by 60 colored engravings; with descriptions in English and French, taken in the years 1798 and 1799. London, 1807. 132 p.
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19. Malpiére D. B. La Chine: Moeurs, usages, costumes, arts et métiers, peines civiles et militaires, cerémonies religieuses, monuments et paysages, d’après les dessins originaux du Père Castiglione, du peintre Chinois Pu-Qua, de W. Alexandre, Chambers, Dadley, etc. Par MM. Corbel, Deveria, Régnier, Schaal, Schit, Vidal. Avec des notes explicatives et une introduction, présentant l’état actuel de l’Empire Chinois, sa statistique, son gouvernement, ses institutions, les cultes qu’il admet ou tolère, et les grands changements politiques qu’il a subis jusqu’à ce jour. Vol. 1–2. Paris, 1825–1827.
20. Atkinson J. A., Walker J. A picturesque representation of the manners, customs, and amusements of the Russians in one hundred coloured plates; with an accurate explanation of each plate, in English and French. Vol. 1–3. London, 1803–1804.
21. Chappe d’Auteroche J. Voyage en Siberie, fait par ordre du roi en 1761; contenant les moeurs, les usages des Russes, et l’état actuel de cette puissance… enrichi de cartes géographiques, de plans, de profi ls du terrein; de gravures qui représentent les usages des Russes… Vol. 1–2. Paris, 1768.
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25. Rechberg Ch., de. Les peoples de la Russie, ou description des moeurs, usages et costumes des diverses nations de l’empire de Russie, accompagnée de figures coloriées. Vol. 1–2. Paris, 1812–1813.
26. Pauly T., de. Description ethnographique des peuples de la Russie. Saint-Petersburg: F. Bellizard, 1862. XIV, 154, 30, 78, 13, 15 p.
27. Паули Г. Т. Этнографическое описание народов России / пер. с фр. А. Мороз, вступ. ст. А. Э. Жабрева. М.: РУСАЛ, 2007. XIV, 277 c.
28. Smiles S. Eye witness: artists and visual documentation in Britain 1770–1830. Aldershot, 2000.
29. Walker G. The costume of Yorkshire illustrated by a series of forty engravings being facsimiles of original drawings with full letterpress descriptions. 10 parts. Leeds: Richard Jackson, 1885.
30. Moss E. L. Polar sketches: 16 chromo-lithographs from water-colour drawings made in Polar regions during the Expedition of 1875–1876 with descriptive notes. London: Marcus Ward, 1878.
31. Atkinson Th. W. Travels in the regions of the upper and lower Amoor and the Russian acquisitions on the confines of India and China: with adventures among the Mountain Kirghis and the Manjours, Manyargs, Toungous, Touzemts, Goldi and Gelyaks, the hunting and pastoral tribes. London: Hurst and Blackett, 1860. 570 p.
References
1. Turner J. The Dictionary of Art, 34 vols. New York, Grove, 1996, vol. 10. 913 p.
2. Nicolay N., de. Les quatres premiers livres des Navigations et peregrinations orientalis. Lyon, 1568.
3. Bruyn A., de. Omnium pene Europae, Asiae, Africae et Americae gentium habitus. Antwerpen, M. Colÿn, 1581.
4. Olearii A. Opisanie puteshestviia v Moskoviiu i cherez Moskoviiu v Persiiu i obratno. Introd., transl. and comm. by A. M. Loviagin. St Petersburg, 1906. 582 p. (In Russian)
5. Aa, P., van der. La Galerie agréable du monde, où l’on voit en un grand nombre de cartes très exactes et de belles tailles douces les principaux empires, roïaumes, républiques, provinces, villes, bourgs et forteresses… les îles, côtes, rivières, ports de mer… les antiquitez, les abbayes, églises, académies, collèges, bibliothèques, palais et autres édifi ces… comme aussi les maisons de campagne, les habillemens et moeurs des peuples… dans les quatre parties de l’univers. Divisée en LXVI tomes, les estampes aiant été dessinées sur les lieux et gravées exactement par les célèbres Luyken, Mulder, Goerée, Baptist, Stopendaal et par d’autres maîtres renomez, avec une courte description qui précède chaque empire, roïaume…. Leide, [1729], vol. 1–66.
6. A Collection of the dresses of different nations, anсient and modern. Particularly old English dresses. After the designs of Holbein, Vandyke, Hollar and others. With an account of the authorities from which the figures are taken; and some short historical remarks on the subject. To which are added the habits of the principal characters on the English stage. Vol. 1–4. London, 1757–1772.
7. Spalart R., von, Kaiserer J. Versuch über das Kostüm. 8 Thle. Wien, 1796–1837.
8. Bonnar C., Mercuri P. Costumes des XIIIe, XIVe et XVe siécles, extraits des monuments les pus authentiques de peinture et de sculpture. Vol. 1–2. Paris; Londres; Strasbourg, 1829–1830.
9. Snegirev I. M. Drevnosti Rossiiskogo gosudarstva. Otdelenie 1–6. Images of F. Solntsev. Moscow, Aleksandr Semen Print, 1849–1853, vol. 1–6. (In Russian)
10. Hefner-Alteneck J. H. Trachten des christlichen Mittelalters nach gleichzeitigen Kunstdenkmalen. Abt. 1–3. Frankfurt-am-Main; Darmstadt, 1840–1854.
11. Racinet A. The Complete Costume History: from Ancient Times to the 19th century: all Plates in Colour. Koln; London; Los Angeles, 2003. 636 p.
12. Meyrick, Sir Samuel Rush. A critical inquiry into antient armour, as it existed in Europe, but particularly in England, from the Norman conquest to the reign of King Charles II, illustrated with a series of richly coloured engravings. With a glossary of military terms of the middle ages. Vol. 1–3. London, H. G. Bohn, 1824.
13. Smith Ch. H. Selections of the ancient costume of Great Britain and Ireland. London, 1814.
14. Strutt J. Horda Angel-cynnan, or a complete view of the manners, customs, arms, habits etc. of the inhabitants of England from the arrival of the Saxons till the reign of Henry VIII (-to the present time). With a short account of the Britons during the government of the Romans. Vol. 1–3. London, 1775–1776.
15. The Costume of Turkey, illustrated by a series of engravings; with description in English and French. London, 1804. [12], 120 p.
16. Solvyns B. The costume of Hindostan elucidated by 60 coloured engravings; with descriptions in English and French, taken in the years 1798 and 1799. London, 1807. 132 p.
17. Mason G. H. The costume of China, illus. by 60 engravings: with explanations in English and French. London, 1800. 134 p.
18. Stauton G. A Historical Account of an embassy from the king of Great Britain to the Emperor of China… taken chiefly from the papers of his excellency the earl of Macartney. Ill. by W. Alexander London, 1797.
19. Malpiére D. B. La Chine: Moeurs, usages, costumes, arts et métiers, peines civiles et militaires, cerémonies religieuses, monuments et paysages, d’après les dessins originaux du Père Castiglione, du peintre Chinois Pu-Qua, de W. Alexandre, Chambers, Dadley, etc. Par MM. Corbel, Deveria, Régnier, Schaal, Schit, Vidal. Avec des notes explicatives et une introduction, présentant l’état actuel de l’Empire Chinois, sa statistique, son gouvernement, ses institutions, les cultes qu’il admet ou tolère, et les grands changements politiques qu’il a subis jusqu’à ce jour. Vol. 1–2. Paris, 1825–1827.
20. Atkinson J. A., Walker J. A picturesque representation of the manners, customs, and amusements of the Russians in one hundred colored plates; with an accurate explanation of each plate, in English and French. Vol. 1–3. London, 1803–1804.
21. Chappe d’Auteroche J. Voyage en Siberie, fait par ordre du roi en 1761; contenant les moeurs, les usages des Russes, et l’état actuel de cette puissance… enrichi de cartes géographiques, de plans, de profi ls du terrein ; de gravures qui représentent les usages des Russes… Vol. 1–2. Paris, 1768.
22. Pallas P. S. Petra Simona Pallasa, doktora meditsiny, professora natural'noi istorii i chlena Rossiiskoi Imperatorskoi akademii nauk… puteshestvie po raznym provintsiiam Rossiiskoi imperii. Vol. 1–3. St Petersburg, 1773–1788. (In Russian)
23. Krasheninnikov S. P. Opisanie zemli Kamchatki, sochinennoe Stepanom Krasheninnikovym, Akademii nauk professorom. 2 vols. St Petersburg, 1755, vol. 1–2. (In Russian)
24. Sarychev G. Puteshestvie kapitana Billingsa cherez Chukotskuiu zemliu ot Beringova proliva do Nizhnekalymskogo ostrova i plavanie kapitana Galla na sudne Chernom orle po Severo-vostochnomu okeanu v 1791 godu. S prilozheniem slovaria dvenadtsati narechii dikikh narodov, nabliudeniia nad stuzheiu v Verkhnekolymskom ostroge, i nastavleniia, dannogo kapitanu Billingsu iz Gosudarstvennoi Admiralteistv kollegii. Izvlecheno iz raznykh zhurnalov vitse-admiralom, nepremennym chlenom Gosudarstvennoi Admiralteitv kollegii… idrografom i kavalerom Gavriilom Sarychevym. St Petersburg, Morskaia tipografiia, 1811. 196 p. (In Russian)
25. Rechberg Ch., de. Les peoples de la Russie, ou description des moeurs, usages et costumes des diverses nations de l’empire de Russie, accompagnée de fi gures coloriées. Vol. 1–2. Paris, 1812–1813.
26. Pauly T., de. Description ethnographique des peuples de la Russie. Saint- Petersbourg, F. Bellizard, 1862. XIV, 154, 30, 78, 13, 15 p.
27. Pauli G. T. Etnograficheskoe opisanie narodov Rossii. Transl. by A. Moroz, introd. by A. E. Zhabreva. Moscow, RUSAL Press, 2007. XIV, 277 p. (In Russian)
28. Smiles S. Eye witness: artists and visual documentation in Britain 1770–1830. Aldershot, 2000.
29. Walker G. The costume of Yorkshire illustrated by a series of forty engravings being facsimiles of original drawings with full letterpress descriptions. 10 parts. Leeds, Richard Jackson, 1885.
30. Moss E. L. Polar sketches: 16 chromo-lithographs from water-colour drawings made in Polar regions during the Expedition of 1875–1876 with descriptive notes. London, Marcus Ward, 1878.
31. Atkinson Th. W. Travels in the regions of the upper and lower Amoor and the Russian acquisitions on the confi nes of India and China: with adventures among the Mountain Kirghis and the Manjours, Manyargs, Toungous, Touzemts, Goldi and Gelyaks, the hunting and pastoral tribes. London, Hurst and Blackett, 1860. 570 p.
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Published
2011-11-10
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Skvortsova, E. A. . (2011). The evolution of costume and ethnographic albums as illustrated publications in European art of the third quarter of the 18th–19th centuries. Vestnik of Saint Petersburg University. Arts, 1(4), 126–132. Retrieved from https://artsjournal.spbu.ru/article/view/1004
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Visual arts
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Articles of "Vestnik of Saint Petersburg University. Arts" are open access distributed under the terms of the License Agreement with Saint Petersburg State University, which permits to the authors unrestricted distribution and self-archiving free of charge.
