Fashion and the Question of the Symbolic: The Ideology of Value and Its Limits

Авторы

  • Екатерина Викторовна Васильева Санкт-Петербургский государственный университет https://orcid.org/0000-0003-3609-2413

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.21638/spbu15.2023.210

Аннотация

Questions of the symbolic occupy one of the central places in the structure and concept of fashion. The system of the symbolic — obscure, not always lending itself to identification and definition — forms the basis of fashion as a mechanism focused upon inversion and acceptance of a conventional system of values. The ideology of the symbolic, founded on the establishment of symbolic values is of direct relevance to an understanding of the system of fashion. The symbolic holds a central position in the establishment of a system of values. It constructs the rich content of the semantic vector of fashion. The artistic, visual and content platform of fashion is built on the basis of the symbolic. This conception was outlined by Jacques Lacan, and then developed further by such figures as Gilles Deleuze, Felix Guattari, Michel Foucault, Jean Baudrillard and Pierre Bourdieu. Existing in a variety of statuses and supporting a whole range of basic programmes — shaping concepts of the authentic, defining mechanisms of exchange and significance, denoting the boundaries of the social field — the symbolic maintains and determines the visual and semantic rules of fashion. This paper examines the main theories of the symbolic associated with the formation of the ideological and artistic programme of fashion.

Ключевые слова:

fashion theory, symbol, symbolic, Jacques Lacan, Michel Foucault, Pierre Bourdieu

Скачивания

Данные скачивания пока недоступны.
 

Библиографические ссылки

References

1. Vasil’eva, Ekaterina. “Fashion and its Theoretical Practice”. Teoriia mody: odezhda, telo, kul’tura, no. 3 (61) (2021): 347–54. (In Russian)

2. Rocamora, Agnès, and Anneke Smelik. Thinking Through Fashion: A Guide to Key Theorists. London; New York: I.B.Tauris, 2016.

3. Foucault, Michel. Surveiller et punir. Naissance de la prison. Paris: Gallimard, 1975.

4. Deleuze, Gilles, and Félix Guattari. L’Anti-Oedipe. Paris: Minuit, 1972.

5. Baudrillard, Jean. L’échange symbolique et la mort. Paris: Gallimard, 1976.

6. Bourdieu, Pierre. “Sur le pouvoir symbolique”. Annales. Economie. Societe. Civilisations, no. 3 (1977): 405–11.

7. Lacan, Jacques. Le Séminaire (1953–1980). 25 vol. Paris, Le Seuil, 1973.

8. Lacan, Jacques. Écrits. Paris: Le Seuil, 1966.

9. Lacan, Jacques. “Fonction et champ de la parole et du language en psychanalyse” (in: Rapport du Congrès de Rome, Istituto di Psicologia della Universitá di Roma, 26–27 septembre 1953). La Psychanalyse, no. 1 (1956).

10. Lacan, Jacques. “Le Symbolique, i’imaginaire et le reel”. Le bulletin de l’Association freudienne, no. 1, novembre (1982).

11. Lacan, Jacques. Des Nomes du Pere (1963). Paris: Editions du Seuil, 2005.

12. Lévi-Strauss, Claude. Les Structures élémentaires de la parenté. Paris: Presses universitaires de France, 1949.

13. Lévi-Strauss, Claude. “L’effiicacite symbolique”. Revue de l’histoire des religions, no. 1 (135) (1949): 5–27.

14. Vasil’eva, Ekaterina. “The Idea of Sign and the Principle of Exchange in the Field of Photography and in the System of Language”. Vestnik of Saint Petersburg University. Arts 6, no. 1 (2016): 4–33. (In Russian)

15. Bourdieu, Pierre. “Espace social et pouvoir symbolique”. In Bourdieu, Pierre. Les choises dites, 157–74. Paris: Éditions de Minuit, 1987.

16. Saussure, Ferdinand de. Cours de linguistique générale. Lausanne; Paris: Payot, 1916.

17. Vasil’eva, Ekaterina. “Language, Photography, Sign. On the Question of the Semiotic Status of the Image and the Object”. Actual Problems of Theory and History of Art, no. 8 (2018): 567–74. (In Russian)

18. Derrida, Jacques. De la grammatologie. Paris: Éditions de Minuit, 1967.

19. Muller, Friedrich Max. Introduction to the science of Religion: Four Lectures. London: Longmans, Green, and Co., 1873.

20. Tylor, Edward Burnett. Anthropology an introduction to the study of man and civilization. London: Macmillan & Co, 1881.

21. Frazer, James George. The Golden Bough: A Study in Magic and Religion. London: Macmillan & Co., 1890.

22. Cassirer, Ernst. Philosophie der symbolischen Formen. 3 Bde. 1. Auflage: Bruno Cassirer, Berlin, 1923–1929.

23. Eliade, Mircea. Aspects du mythe. Paris: Gallimard, 1963.

24. Bartes, Roland. Mythologies. Paris: Éditions du Seuil, 1957.

25. Gajdenko, Piama. “The principle of universal mediation in the neo-Kantianism of the Marburg school”. In Kant and the Kantians. Critical Essays on a Philosophical Tradition, ed. by Aleksei Bogomolov, 154–250. Moscow: Nauka Publ., 1978.

26. Hamlin, Cyrus, and John Michael Krois. Symbolic Forms and Cultural Studies: Ernst Cassirer’s Theory of Culture. New Haven: Yale University Press, 2004.

27. Itzkoff, Seymour. Ernst Cassirer: Scientific Knowledge and the Concept of Man. Notre Dame: University of Notre Dame Press, 1971.

28. Cassirer, Ernst. An essay on man. An introduction to a philosophy of human culture. New Haven: Yale University Press; London: H.Milford, Oxford University Press, 1944.

29. Lévy-Bruhl, Lucien. La mentalité primitive. Paris: Librairie Felix Alcan, 1922.

30. Lévy-Bruhl, Lucien. Le surnaturel et la nature dans la mentalité primitive. Paris: Librairie Felix Alcan, 1931.

31. Vasil’eva, Ekaterina. Photography and Non-Logical Form. Moscow: Novoe literaturnoe obozrenie Publ., 2019. (In Russian)

32. Mauss, Marcel. “Essai sur le don. Forme et raison de l’échange dans les sociétés archaïques”. L’Année Sociologique, no. 1, (1923–1924): 30–186.

33. Derrida, Jacques. “Given Time: The Time of the King”. Critical Inquiry, no. 2 (1992): 161–87.

34. Vasil’eva, Ekaterina. “Photography and the Phenomenon of Time”. Vestnik of Saint Petersburg University. Arts 4, no. 1 (2014): 64–79.

35. Gurko, Elena. Deconstruction texts. Derrida J.Differаnсе. Tomsk: Vodolei Publ., 1999.

36. Vasil’eva, Ekaterina. “The Phenomenon of the Feminine and the Figure of the Sacred”. Teoriia mody: telo, odezhda, kul’tura, no. 42 (2016): 159–89.

37. Barthes, Roland. Système de la mode. Paris: Éditions du Seuil, 1967.

38. Baudrillard, Jean. Le Système des objets: la consommation des signes. Paris: Gallimard, 1968.

39. Baudrillard, Jean. La société de consommation: ses mythes et ses structures. Paris: Denoël, 1970.

40. Zenkin, Sergej. “Jean Baudrillard: The Time of Simulacra”. In Baudrillard, Jean. Symbolic exchange and death, 5–48. Moscow: Dobrosvet Publ., 2000. (In Russian)

41. Vasil’eva, Ekaterina. “Düsseldorf School of Photography: Social and Mythological”. Vestnik of Saint Petersburg University. Arts 6, no. 3 (2016): 27–37. (In Russian)

42. Deleuze, Gilles, and Félix Guattari. Mille plateaux. Paris: Minuit, 1980.

43. Foucault, Michel. Naissance de la clinique. Une archéologie du regard médical. Paris: Presses Universitaires de France, 1963.

44. Foucault, Michel. Histoire de la sexualité, vol. 1. Paris: Gallimard, 1976.

45. Sokuler, Zinaida. “The concept of ‘disciplinary power’ M.Foucault”. In Sokuler, Zinaida. Knowledge and Power: Science in Modern Society, 58–82. St Petersburg: RKhGI Publ., 2001. (In Russian)

46. Vasil’eva, Ekaterina. “Susan Sontag on Photography: The Idea of Beauty and the Problem of Norm”. Vestnik of Saint Petersburg University. Arts 4, no. 3 (2014): 64–80. (In Russian)

47. Wittgenstein, Ludwig. Philosophische Untersuchungen. Frankfurt am Mein: Suhrkamp, 1953.

48. Kripke, Saul. Wittgenstein über Regeln und Privatsprache. Eine elementare Darstellung. Frankfurt am Main: Suhrkamp, 1987.

49. Marks, John. Gilles Deleuze. Vitalism and Multiplicity. Sterling; London: Pluto Press, 1998.

50. Due, Reidar. Deleuze. Cambridge: Polity Press, 2007.

51. Deleuze, Gilles. Nietzsche et la philosophie. Paris: Presses Universitaires de France, 1962.

Загрузки

Опубликован

29.06.2023

Как цитировать

Васильева, Е. В. (2023). Fashion and the Question of the Symbolic: The Ideology of Value and Its Limits. Вестник Санкт-Петербургского университета. Искусствоведение, 13(2), 376–392. https://doi.org/10.21638/spbu15.2023.210

Выпуск

Том 13 № 2 (2023)

Раздел

Междисциплинарные исследования

Лицензия

Статьи журнала «Вестник Санкт-Петербургского университета. Искусствоведение» находятся в открытом доступе и распространяются в соответствии с условиями Лицензионного Договора с Санкт-Петербургским государственным университетом, который бесплатно предоставляет авторам неограниченное распространение и самостоятельное архивирование.

Наиболее читаемые статьи этого автора (авторов)